Snug sock pattern

February 16, 2026

This pattern has not been test-knitted at every size.

Enter your own measurements:

Ankle (or calf) circumference at desired cuff height: 25 cm
Desired cuff length: 12 cm
Length of foot: 28 cm
Foot circumference at widest part: 27 cm
If the ankle/calf and foot circumferences differ by more than 4cm, you will need to add decreases along the cuff according to your stitch gauge (for target number of stitches, based on smaller circumference) and row gauge (to determine decrease rate). I may eventually add detailed instructions.

Sizes: one size / make-to-fit

Materials:

Yarn: one (1) skein of sock yarn with at least 15% nylon or other polyamide + one (1) mini skein of similar sock yarn if you want to add a contrasting heel/cuff/toe.
Needles: double-pointed-needles (DPNs) or circular needles in . I find it easier to join in the round on DPNs and I switch to circular needles after the heel.
Small, snippy scissors
A tapestry needle

Instructions

Cast on:

Cast on method: long-tail cast-on but around both needles at once, such that the cast-on row is a bit looser.

Using needles, cast on stitches (sts.).

Join in the round:

Invisible join: position your needles in a circle and ensure all sts. on your cast-on row are facing inwards. Your working yarn should be on the right-hand (RH) needle. K1, joining in the round. Pass the next stitch on the RH needle over your knitted stitch, as you do when casting off. K1. Then: * P2, K2, P2 * repeat from * to end.

Cuff:

Note: measurements should be taken with work stretched laterally, ie. tried-on.

Continue to knit in 2x2 ribbing until the cuff measures .

Prepare the heel opening:

Note: If knitting a contrasting heel, you may use the contrast colour (CC) for this step. If not, use a piece of scrap yarn in a contrasting color to your main color.

Round (Rd.) 1: With the main colour (MC) yarn, knit (no ribbing) across sts. from beginning of round (BOR), then continue ribbing until to end.
Rd. 2 (half rd.): With the CC yarn, knit (no ribbing) across sts. from BOR. Cut CC yarn.
Rd. 3: If on DPNs, start from BOR again and knit with MC yarn across those sts. just worked in CC yarn, then resume 2x2 ribbing until end. If on circular needles, first slip those sts. just worked in CC yarn back to the left-hand (LH) needle, then knit with MC yarn for half the total sts., and resume 2x2 ribbing until end.

Insert lifelines: thread a tapestry needle with a piece of scrap yarn of a slightly smaller weight than your project yarn. Working from R to L, pick the right-leaning half of every knit stitch in the row *below* the contrasting one. Leave a generous allowance on either end. Repeat this process for the row *above* the contrasting one.

Foot:

I like to switch to circular needles at this point.

Reminder: measurements should be taken with work stretched laterally, ie. tried-on

Continue in 2x2 ribbing until work measures from where you prepared the forethought heel.

Wedge toe:

Attach CC if using, or continue in MC like so:

Knit 3 rounds (rds.).
Rd. 4: K1, slip, slip, knit (SSK), knit sts., knit two together (K2tog), K1. Then: K1, SSK, knit sts., K2tog, K1.
Rd. 5: Knit.

Repeat rds. 4 & 5 until 44 sts. left in total.
Repeat rd. 4 for 3 rds.; 12 sts. decreased, 32 sts. left in total.
Graft remaining sts. using kitchener stitch.

Finish the heel:

Locate the center of the row you knit with contrasting yarn and carefully snip.Use the tip of a tapestry needle or knitting needle to pick this row out.
Place the live rows (secured with lifelines) back on your needles.
Follow the same instructions used for the wedge toe.
Weave in ends with a tapestry needle. Blocking not needed.

Knit another identical sock.